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Treasure Island - Day 1

By Robert Madigan


Inis Oirr - Aran Islands

On the morning of April 28th 2018, I set off for Doolin to catch a boat across to Inis Mór. The

sun was beaming brightly, with only a sparse covering of pale clouds in an otherwise azure sky. Already, the conditions were ripe for a glorious weekend of adventure and exploration and I anticipated great things for the days ahead. I had grown weary of my familiar surroundings, of my work, the daily commuting, my routines... the mundane progression of the working week. This trip was my escape from that world, an intermission I was greatly in need of, where I could forget the trivialities of life and be like a child again. Little did I know, this weekend was to become one of the most memorable and enjoyable I have spent in my life thus far...


Arriving in Doolin, I proceeded to purchase a return ticket from one of the ferry companies in operation there. People of all ages and walks of life had already begun to gather at the port; families, couples, some with bikes, others with prams, hikers, tourists (both domestic and foreign) and sailors. When it was time to depart, I promptly made my way onto the ferry upon which I was to spend the next ninety minutes starring out in awe upon the great expanse of the Atlantic ocean. Camera in hand, I eagerly snapped up scenic pictures of the ocean, the islands in the distance, the ships, before easing into a smoother rhythm. The sea breeze was refreshing and uplifting; each breath fueling me with newfound energy like an elixir of youth as I peered out enthusiastically upon the horizon. Indeed, (as will be a reoccuring theme in this blog), I felt a childlike wonderment take hold of me during this voyage as I imagined a life at sea and the sense of freedom which it would bring. 

Approaching Inis Mór - from the Prussian Blue Atlantic Ocean

The weekend was well and truly off to a fantastic start, but was about to get even better with a fortuitous surprise. Upon docking at the island of Inis Mean, a very unexpected visitor had taken interest in our vessel and had come to take a closer look. This visitor just so happened to be of the variety I had written about in my previous blog: a bottlenose dolphin! With renewed excitement, I hastily snapped pictures of the curious creature as it surfaced and waited in anticipation each time it submerged for it to resurface once again. I felt very privileged to have been given the opportunity to witness such an amazing creature up close, especially having only so recently written about them. Eventually, our tiny vessel disembarked again and we parted from our intriguing visitor who, no doubt, went off again in search of other interesting things.


A Bottlenose Dolphin swims up to the ferry boat!

Finally, the vessel reached its final destination. I hopped off the ferry and proceeded to look for my two good friends from college who had arrived from a similar vessel that had departed from Co. Galway. We immediately made our way to the hostel we had booked in order to drop off our things. Along the way, the locals offered us, and any who had the look of a non-islander, a tour of the island by horse and cart or mini-van. I remembered having participated on a similar tour of Inis Oirr by horse and cart and finding it to be a thoroughly enjoyable experience, however me and my friends had decided we would rent bikes this time and explore the island at our own leisure. Having dropped off our things and stocking up on some water and light snacks, we made our way to one of the bike rental centers where we paid our deposit. We then closely inspected the bikes and tested them for comfort before carefully selecting the bikes that would act as our trusty steeds for the day ahead.


On yer bikes lads!

Once on the road, a renewed sense of freedom took hold. We were the authors of our own stories here on this island and we could go anywhere; the thrill of adventure was overwhelming! I savored the feeling of the fresh sea air that blew upon my face as I raced down the coastal roads, stopping every so often to take a picture of the picturesque landscape or a peculiar oddity. We set in the direction of one of the most popular attractions on the island; Dún Aonghasa. Many shared our plan to explore the island independently and we passed many groups of cyclists and hikers. Along the way, we also encountered a friendly white horse who was anxious to eat the handlebars off my friend Jack's bike! Instead, we convinced him to stray from his odd diet in favour of some fresh spring water. A healthier option, surely...


Looking into Poll na bPeist



Nearby to Dún Aonghasa, we found a sign for Poll na bPeist and decided to take a look. Literally meaning '"the Worm Hole", it is a popular diving spot on the island and has even been a site for the Red Bull cliff diving competitions. As we made our way up the road leading to it, we found the road became increasingly rough, so opted to ditch them and go cross country for the rest of the way.


Dramatic over hanging rock formations

The landscape leading to this site shares a striking resemblance to the Burren in appearance, with large slabs of limestone rock covering the ground for much of the way divided into fields by the characteristic stone walls found all over the Aran Islands. When we finally reached our destination, we were met with a spectacular view of towering cliff faces, low lying caves and a deep, pristine pool of water which was the main attraction. A small group of tourists had gathered around and we all shortly bared witness to a group of four brave men who took it upon themselves to show us their cliff diving expertise (which actually just consisted of making as large a splash as possible)...

After taking in this majestic spectacle of diving mastery, we returned to our bikes and headed to Dún Aonghasa, a famous prehistoric hill fort lying on the edge of a 100 meter cliff and surrounded by stone slabs that acted as a defense system known as a cheval de frise. Along the way, I marveled at the beauty of the unspoilt nature leading up to the fort. Gorse bushes covered much of the landscape, adding flamboyantly to the colour palette of the landscape. Inside the fort itself, me and my companions took a well deserved break as we took in the immensity of the structure that now surrounded us. Walls of stone, heaped on top of one another by a people long since gone, lay all around for the purpose of defence against attackers. A reminder of humankind's basic instinct to survive. In the end, they say time takes all regardless. Yet, the passing of time has thus far failed to break this line of defence; perhaps that is a victory in itself?


Hillside fortress of Dún Aonghasa

The evening was drawing ever nearer now, so we decided it was time to return back to the main village where our hostel was. Once at the hostel, we would wash up a bit and then decide on a place to eat. However, another realisation soon dawned on us once we retreated inside from the sun's alluring glow; we were all as red as tomatoes! It is a rare thing for an Irish person to wear sun protection since, after all, why would anyone need it on such a rainy, wet island? But that was a weekend like no other, and, needless to say, I learned a valuable lesson regarding the wearing of sun cream at the amusement of my family and co-workers...

Despite the desire to retreat from the world with this mark of shame, hunger was goading us to make for a nearby restaurant and eat something substantial. We decided on a local pub and enjoyed a delicious meal after a long day of adventure. Having been told by the owner of the hostel in which we were staying that there was a wedding happening on the island and that there would be merrymaking at a popular live music pub, we then made for that pub after our meal to partake of the celebrations. What was to follow was a night of good, wholesome conversation and loud, rancorous singing! The pub itself was small and dimly lit, yet it was filled with people. All the while, two musicians played lively folk songs in a cozy corner of the main room. Throughout the night, locals and outsiders alike joined in on the reveling, making for an intoxicating atmosphere even for those who were not under the influence of alcohol!

As the night drew late, we decided to join in on one last song before making our way back to the hostel. The night itself was peaceful, though we were not. The day had been hugely enjoyable and yet another day awaited us still; our excitement remained unbroken. However, once we returned to our beds and lay down for the night, sleep soon took us. Perhaps we were exhausted after all? Day one down, bring on day two.


Renewing out childhood!!

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