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Treasure Island - Part 11


Traditional shop takes one back in time.

The second day of our adventure on the island began very much like the first: with a cloudless sky giving way to an intense sun. Well rested and enthused further by the prospects of yet another fine day, we left our room in the hostel in search of breakfast. The most important meal of the day indeed, especially in our case with another strenuous day of rambling ahead. We found the self-serving dining room and shared a meal with some foreign backpackers hailing from Germany who were in equally good spirits. After finishing our cups of tea, we cleaned up after ourselves and in typical Irish fashion, we wished the backpackers an enjoyable holiday before embarking on the road again.


The heat of the sun was already quite palpable as we left the hostel towards the bike rental depot. Aware of the sunburn we had unfortunately been afflicted with the previous day, we decided to take a more cautious approach towards exposure to the elements. However, much to our surprise, the main shop on the island didn't have any sun

Freedom of cycling around the island

cream in stock! It appeared they were in as much shock about the unusually fine weather as we were... So I opted for a plan B strategy, and took to wearing a long-sleeve for the day.


We decided to take a trip out towards the opposite side of the island from our first day, towards Gort Na gCapall. We cycled past an area of flat moorland inhabited by rabbits and strange-sounding birds (which my friend Jack made a habit of mimicking...) before arriving on a rocky shore. Here, we decided to step off the bikes and investigate the hills covered in tall, combed-over, grass that surrounded the shoreline. Apart from a broken toilet (which Jack had decided was an opportune object with which to take a profile picture), we came across something very interesting indeed... an actual message in a bottle! Strange how it had ended up so far up shore...perhaps the creator had initially written the note but hesitated to send it out to sea? Regardless of the story behind it, it was interesting find. Unfortunately, the contents were less so... no secret treasure maps, or directions to a hidden pirate cove... However, the message was still charming in its own right. It was a make-believe s.o.s written 'as gaeilge' by a young boy who lived on the island! On the other side of the letter was a roughly drawn imaginary map, owing to the author's sense of creativity. Imagination is certainly a virtue, and one that is mastered not by the old, but by the young!


After returning to our bikes and an obligatory playing of the song 'Message in a bottle' by the Police, we set off in the direction of Dún Duchathair. On the way, we came across a distant seal colony in which the members seemed content in lying out in the sun. They seemed in no way as interested in us as we were in them, perhaps with good reason. Nevertheless, on we went and soon we found ourselves ditching the bikes again in favour of our feet in order to climb the rough road to the Black Fort. Along the way, we were met with some breathtaking views of the sea with the cliffs towering over. The colors of the landscape were amplified further by the fine weather; we were truly blessed. After taking in our fill of stunning scenery, we eventually reached a familiar imposing wall of stone placed upon stone. We had reached yet another stone wall of a fort built many, many years ago. The pathway to leading to the other side of the fort is not for the faint-hearted however, as it becomes very narrow with a steep drop into the sea below... But such things do not worry adventurers such as us and soon we were off to investigate what lay behind the fort's wall. Among the low-lying walls of the fort's internal ruins, I took a moment to escape the sun and lie down, contemplating what a wonderful childhood one could have playing games of make-believe in such a place. And I could have stayed in meditation for a few hours too if I wished, for there were few tourists making their way up the rough, jagged path to this fort and even fewer with the courage to reach the other side!

As had been the case the day previous, time was not our friend. It was already growing late into the day, so the fateful trio decided it was time to make tracks yet again towards the bike depot. On the way, we decided to stop for some delicious, locally-produced ice-cream. It appeared we had started a trend too, for many other cyclists stopped to avail of a cone also upon seeing us enjoying ours! Soon, we were back returning our bicycles and headed up towards the ferries. I was the first to leave the island and so I bade my loyal companions a hefty farewell before setting off to sea yet again.


Departing by Sea

It is easy to imagine how spending one's childhood growing up on this magical island could be such a wholesome experience. Inis Mór is a community that seems to share a more natural relationship with it's land and it's history than many other parts of Ireland. It is a wild place that rewards an adventurous heart with meaningful experiences and picturesque scenery. And yet it's inhabitants remain humble and welcoming, despite the increasing popularity of their wee island, for they must know themselves how fortunate they are to live in such a beautiful, unadulterated place. Indeed, I plan to return to this magnificent island, hopefully in the not-so-distant future, and perhaps stop by the sister islands of Inis Meáin and Inis Oírr to see what those islands have to offer.



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